Tubliss / Nuetech
- Thread starter Jessie
- Start date
KevinAnderson
Member
I picked up a Tubliss this season for my rear tire. My overall impression is that it's nice. I seem to get a bit more traction in slow rocky sections. But seem to have a bit less traction on loose terrain at speed. I went WOT up a hill and thought my clutch plates were slipping bad. Turned out it was my rear tire that was slipping, as I roosted the ____ out of my friend. I'm running it with 6 psi in the rear tire.
On a side note. On my first ride I noted that the low pressure side was "flat" shortly into my ride. Rode like that for the day and it seemed fine. Went to find the air leak afterwards, only to find out that the low pressure valve stem wasn't tightened. I mistakenly thought that it would have been tightened from the factory. Apparently not.
On a side note. On my first ride I noted that the low pressure side was "flat" shortly into my ride. Rode like that for the day and it seemed fine. Went to find the air leak afterwards, only to find out that the low pressure valve stem wasn't tightened. I mistakenly thought that it would have been tightened from the factory. Apparently not.
dschultz
Administrator
Can be ordered here too:
https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/nuetec ... 0-kit.html
https://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/nuetec ... 0-kit.html
Tire selection for low pressure use seems to be essential. Stiff carcass tires improve dramatically, but soft tires may do worse. Higher ply counts or desert tires won't collapse at low pressures, while soft carcass (like trials tires) can be more prone to damage.
And yes Kevin, you were throwing alot of rocks! Probably digging new whoops.
And yes Kevin, you were throwing alot of rocks! Probably digging new whoops.
Gnarly Parts has Tubliss systems on sale right now. Just ordered myself a front and rear. $119.95 with free delivery, cheapest I've seen yet.
http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/Nuetech-Tubli ... p_558.html
http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/Nuetech-Tubli ... p_558.html
gman
Member
Gents... Great Boogie this year.
Had my first front-flat near the end of the Sunday loop 1km from the ski hill on the Sunday ride. Was an easy fix and wasn't a real hassle given near end of the ride instead of half-way through Garnsey.
Got thrown to the ground 3x (hard!) on the Sat loop from odd-angle logs and roots on the trail running 15-16lbs on a relatively new Pirelli M16. So ran a few lbs less on the front (12lbs) thinking the UHD tubes would hold up for the Monday ride. Didn't get thrown to the ground... But got a stupid pinch flat (two major gashes in a $50+ Bridgestone UHD tube) just before the finish.
I'd never ran UHD's before getting my 350excf. They are HEAVY! Like close to 4-5lbs. Rotational weight is huge. But I hate having a great ride interrupted with a stupid flat.
I have heard mixed reviews on Tubliss. Seem to see a lot of guys on the side of the trail fiddling with pressures constantly... Or having to stop and pump them up again as their tires didn't seal properly.
Would appreciate an honest opinion on whether the small hassles (or are those I met on the trail-side fiddling with their Tubliss just using the wrong tires, mounting methods, etc) are worth the overall gain in rotational weight savings and (more importantly), traction, feel and elimination of flats.
Does anyone (everyone?) run tubes as well as the high-pressure tube? Or just the high-pressure tube and the tire? What do you use (if anything.. Like Slime or ?) to get a proper seal if you don't use a low-pressure tube. Seems redundant to use a low-pressure tube when running Tubliss? The whole point is to get rid of that tube is it not?
I might try it on the front first. (Have NEVER had a rear flat in all my years of riding and always run 10-11 lbs tops) Then if I like it, put in a rear once I swap out my tire.
Thanks in advance,
Grant
Had my first front-flat near the end of the Sunday loop 1km from the ski hill on the Sunday ride. Was an easy fix and wasn't a real hassle given near end of the ride instead of half-way through Garnsey.
Got thrown to the ground 3x (hard!) on the Sat loop from odd-angle logs and roots on the trail running 15-16lbs on a relatively new Pirelli M16. So ran a few lbs less on the front (12lbs) thinking the UHD tubes would hold up for the Monday ride. Didn't get thrown to the ground... But got a stupid pinch flat (two major gashes in a $50+ Bridgestone UHD tube) just before the finish.
I'd never ran UHD's before getting my 350excf. They are HEAVY! Like close to 4-5lbs. Rotational weight is huge. But I hate having a great ride interrupted with a stupid flat.
I have heard mixed reviews on Tubliss. Seem to see a lot of guys on the side of the trail fiddling with pressures constantly... Or having to stop and pump them up again as their tires didn't seal properly.
Would appreciate an honest opinion on whether the small hassles (or are those I met on the trail-side fiddling with their Tubliss just using the wrong tires, mounting methods, etc) are worth the overall gain in rotational weight savings and (more importantly), traction, feel and elimination of flats.
Does anyone (everyone?) run tubes as well as the high-pressure tube? Or just the high-pressure tube and the tire? What do you use (if anything.. Like Slime or ?) to get a proper seal if you don't use a low-pressure tube. Seems redundant to use a low-pressure tube when running Tubliss? The whole point is to get rid of that tube is it not?
I might try it on the front first. (Have NEVER had a rear flat in all my years of riding and always run 10-11 lbs tops) Then if I like it, put in a rear once I swap out my tire.
Thanks in advance,
Grant
gman":23804cbt said:
The following reference might help you:
Here is some reference info: http://www.betarider.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1048
Here is another Tubliss reference from Barry Morris / Cross training video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12ZmjKWNifka
One last reference: http://www.betarider.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1552
KevinAnderson
Member
Hi Grant,
Not sure where you plan on putting the valve of a tube if your running a tubliss system. No one does it, no need.
I only run tubliss on my rear, but have had good results. I did get a 1" gash my old MT16's. but didn't notice I had a flat till after the ride. I had 6 psi in that tire. If you get a flat on the high pressure side, you pretty much have to ride it out. Only problem with the high pressure side I know was Mike. Not sure if that was manufacturing error or user install error.
Also if you break a spoke (like I did), you'll have to remove the tubliss and rim tape. I was hoping I didn't, but once I put the spoke in the hub and saw the bend at the hub side of the spoke, it's obvious you need to remove it.
Not sure where you plan on putting the valve of a tube if your running a tubliss system. No one does it, no need.
I only run tubliss on my rear, but have had good results. I did get a 1" gash my old MT16's. but didn't notice I had a flat till after the ride. I had 6 psi in that tire. If you get a flat on the high pressure side, you pretty much have to ride it out. Only problem with the high pressure side I know was Mike. Not sure if that was manufacturing error or user install error.
Also if you break a spoke (like I did), you'll have to remove the tubliss and rim tape. I was hoping I didn't, but once I put the spoke in the hub and saw the bend at the hub side of the spoke, it's obvious you need to remove it.
Hi guys,
I have an original set of Tubliss with over 500 hours on it, never got a flat on the inner bladder.
I raced all FMSQ and Offroad Ontario races with Tubliss this year without a single incident.
You have to follow the procedure exactly, I seen people with problem but they haven't follow the procedure correctly, they made very small mistakes witch lead to failure of the inner bladder.
I do use SLIM every time I change a tire, I did get flat when running too low of pressure like 3 psi in garnsey with a worn tire or a soft tire. It got cut by sharp rocks, but I stop on the trail, put a plug and kept going. I had very worn tire that I put 4-6 tire plugs in it, as the tire get worn it gets more fragile and you have to watch to not run it at too low of pressure.
I do have to check my tire pressure before every ride, I always make sure the inner bladder is at perfect 110 PSI, I just do this once a day when riding.
I use front and rear Tubliss.
It is the cheapest option to run with this type of traction.
It also works with old tires, they recommend using a new tire but with Slim I had good success with old and new tires.
I replace my tires almost every races, so I do a lot of tire changing every week. You have to be very careful when you spoon your tire off because you could catch the read inner liner and destroy it, once you got your spoon in the right spot then the tire comes off very easily.
I always torque the wheel lock more then the 15NM that they recommend, I go by hand and turn until it is very snug.
When you get a flat and you have slim, it makes it much easier to find where the flat is because slim will be coming out the hole. When you get a flat you pump it back to high pressure and rotate the wheel until you hear the air or see the slim coming out.
Tubliss also has a nice pump which is also available at Woody, the pump is made to be able to easily pump air in the Tubliss inner bladder with absolutely no effort, it can be used to pump air in both inner bladder and tire. In the even that you would go through a innser bladder in the trail you can use a patch and pump it right back up or carry a spare inner bladder, which is way smaller then a regular tube.
This system has been serving me well and I won't go to anything else.
If you want more info PM me!
I have an original set of Tubliss with over 500 hours on it, never got a flat on the inner bladder.
I raced all FMSQ and Offroad Ontario races with Tubliss this year without a single incident.
You have to follow the procedure exactly, I seen people with problem but they haven't follow the procedure correctly, they made very small mistakes witch lead to failure of the inner bladder.
I do use SLIM every time I change a tire, I did get flat when running too low of pressure like 3 psi in garnsey with a worn tire or a soft tire. It got cut by sharp rocks, but I stop on the trail, put a plug and kept going. I had very worn tire that I put 4-6 tire plugs in it, as the tire get worn it gets more fragile and you have to watch to not run it at too low of pressure.
I do have to check my tire pressure before every ride, I always make sure the inner bladder is at perfect 110 PSI, I just do this once a day when riding.
I use front and rear Tubliss.
It is the cheapest option to run with this type of traction.
It also works with old tires, they recommend using a new tire but with Slim I had good success with old and new tires.
I replace my tires almost every races, so I do a lot of tire changing every week. You have to be very careful when you spoon your tire off because you could catch the read inner liner and destroy it, once you got your spoon in the right spot then the tire comes off very easily.
I always torque the wheel lock more then the 15NM that they recommend, I go by hand and turn until it is very snug.
When you get a flat and you have slim, it makes it much easier to find where the flat is because slim will be coming out the hole. When you get a flat you pump it back to high pressure and rotate the wheel until you hear the air or see the slim coming out.
Tubliss also has a nice pump which is also available at Woody, the pump is made to be able to easily pump air in the Tubliss inner bladder with absolutely no effort, it can be used to pump air in both inner bladder and tire. In the even that you would go through a innser bladder in the trail you can use a patch and pump it right back up or carry a spare inner bladder, which is way smaller then a regular tube.
This system has been serving me well and I won't go to anything else.
If you want more info PM me!
KevinAnderson":3rfxiic2 said:
Hey Kevin, I did break a spoke and I didn't have to remove the Tubliss. I would not recommend that but I did it to test it.
I cut a circle in the tape around the spoke inside the rim, then I put the new spoke in, then I cut a piece of duct tape and closed everything back together. I actually did that for 2 spokes and one was right at the stem, very tricky to tape back the rim.
I wouldn't recommend that procedure but you can take a chance and see if it last.
Woody's has replacement tape, replacement bladder, replacement inner red liner, etc.. is all set to serve us well
gman":1oswu5ib said:
15psi just seems insane to me now, this weekend I ran 7.5psi upfront (Goldentyre Fatty), 3 psi rear (AT81RC). The reason guys fiddle with their psi is because you want to see how low can you go. 6 ply desert tires...down to 0, thin motocross or trials tires, maybe 10 if your concerned about cutting them. There are plenty of proven low psi tires out there that work great with Tubliss, stick to those and with moderately competent installation skills you should be good. Sealant isn't necessary but helps identify holes to plug and guarantees a better long term seal (usually once they set, they only leak if there's a problem). I will check chambers before a weekend ride, but they shouldn't leak enough during that week to be noticeable (I sometimes forget because it has been that reliable).
Join our Tubliss army Grant, great traction and eternal riding salvation await you...
KevinAnderson
Member
Hi Grant,
Just want to add that Tubliss isn't recommend for street use. I mention this as your KTM is street legal and sees some street use. I don't know why Tubliss doesn't recommend it for street use.
Kevin
Just want to add that Tubliss isn't recommend for street use. I mention this as your KTM is street legal and sees some street use. I don't know why Tubliss doesn't recommend it for street use.
Kevin
Because they can't get DOT approval, they would need to test all the tire and rim types. I've used them on the road, no biggy as your typical dirt bike wont get above 120. Heat might be a concern from long intervals at high speed, but then again tubes have the same problem.KevinAnderson":f5zjxknt said:
gman
Member
Great input everyone. Thanks very much. This answered any question/doubt.
If I'm going Tubliss (which at this point I have been convinced to), I want it to be a better overall experience without twice the hassle. Not just about a single aspect like traction. (Although that is an enticing reason alone)
I ride for the pure fun and enjoyment of it. With the limited hours I get on the trail every year, I want to make the most out of every ride. I don't need any more HP. Just accessories that help with keeping the ride going. (Rad braces are on my wish list)
Thanks for the warning Kevin. We have a whole set of tires/wheels for the road and I used the stock tubes in those. Just want Tubliss in my off-road setup. We have the Tusk wheel set from RMATV in Black/White and it is a steal... high quality, nice looking and light for what you pay. I wouldn't hesitate to use them off-road too. Cost less than one stock KTM rim.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/36 ... 922&c=6290
I stayed with 21/18 front and rear vs going full Motard 17-17 on the road set. Didn't want the hassle of front brake off-set spacers, cutting fork guards, etc. Also allows me to run the Dual Sport rides or take a 1hr trip to get some "Milk at the store" with a simple wheel(s) change.
I'll pick them up this week.
Cheers,
G.
If I'm going Tubliss (which at this point I have been convinced to), I want it to be a better overall experience without twice the hassle. Not just about a single aspect like traction. (Although that is an enticing reason alone)
I ride for the pure fun and enjoyment of it. With the limited hours I get on the trail every year, I want to make the most out of every ride. I don't need any more HP. Just accessories that help with keeping the ride going. (Rad braces are on my wish list)
Thanks for the warning Kevin. We have a whole set of tires/wheels for the road and I used the stock tubes in those. Just want Tubliss in my off-road setup. We have the Tusk wheel set from RMATV in Black/White and it is a steal... high quality, nice looking and light for what you pay. I wouldn't hesitate to use them off-road too. Cost less than one stock KTM rim.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/36 ... 922&c=6290
I stayed with 21/18 front and rear vs going full Motard 17-17 on the road set. Didn't want the hassle of front brake off-set spacers, cutting fork guards, etc. Also allows me to run the Dual Sport rides or take a 1hr trip to get some "Milk at the store" with a simple wheel(s) change.
I'll pick them up this week.
Cheers,
G.
gman
Member
Well... Turns out the flat I had @ the Boogie was from a huge gash in the corner/side of my front tire. Never had that happen before. The Pirelli M16's are on the soft side for an IT... But not "that" soft.
Had to replace the front tire anyway, so went with Tubliss on the front for now with a Maxis IT and picked up the Rear for when my current rear tire wears out.
Mounted it with Woody in his shop with no trouble. Only step we skipped was dousing the inside of the tire with Soap/Water. He uses a tire-mounting lube from Napa which we generously doused on the bead for mounting and it seemed to seal up really nice.
Heading out Sunday. So will get to test it then.
Any recommendations on a specific brand of tire-plug? Seems I could have needed with my last flat before installing the Tubliss.
Or just whatever the local auto-parts place sells?
G.
Had to replace the front tire anyway, so went with Tubliss on the front for now with a Maxis IT and picked up the Rear for when my current rear tire wears out.
Mounted it with Woody in his shop with no trouble. Only step we skipped was dousing the inside of the tire with Soap/Water. He uses a tire-mounting lube from Napa which we generously doused on the bead for mounting and it seemed to seal up really nice.
Heading out Sunday. So will get to test it then.
Any recommendations on a specific brand of tire-plug? Seems I could have needed with my last flat before installing the Tubliss.
Or just whatever the local auto-parts place sells?
G.
I just use the standard tar strand from the generic kits. The foam plugs didn't work so well on my mountain bikes.
I've started to use Moose tire sealant (orange stuff). I think it's the same as Orange brand sealant for mtb's, which is a latex based sealant that can self plug holes. I haven't had enough time on the Moose brand to see if it's the real deal yet. All the automotive sealants will do very little to plug a hole, they're mostly good for keeping the bladder bead sealed and lubricated
I've started to use Moose tire sealant (orange stuff). I think it's the same as Orange brand sealant for mtb's, which is a latex based sealant that can self plug holes. I haven't had enough time on the Moose brand to see if it's the real deal yet. All the automotive sealants will do very little to plug a hole, they're mostly good for keeping the bladder bead sealed and lubricated
Hi,
I just installed the Tubliss system front and rear.
At the moment I have the tires set to 10 psi and it felt fine while at Limerick but not sure if that pressure is ok when riding in Calabogie.
Any suggestions/recommendation on what would be a good/safe tire pressure when riding up there?
Does the 15 psi recommendation still apply or is that no longer necessary since I don’t have traditional inner tube?
Thanks, Mark
I just installed the Tubliss system front and rear.
At the moment I have the tires set to 10 psi and it felt fine while at Limerick but not sure if that pressure is ok when riding in Calabogie.
Any suggestions/recommendation on what would be a good/safe tire pressure when riding up there?
Does the 15 psi recommendation still apply or is that no longer necessary since I don’t have traditional inner tube?
Thanks, Mark