Parasitic Draw Spec - KTM EXCF

gman

Member
Anyone know what to expect in the way of parasitic draw for a modern EXCF? I’ve had my batt drain twice this month sitting for -week or more with a lithium batt. Setup hasn’t changed this year. Trying to debut and want to know what to expect for draw with the key off. Tia!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Oxmach

Member
I would expect it to be near 0 as the only thing I can think of drawing from the battery would be the dash clock and ecu. I had a similar situation with my 350 and an EarthX Li. I could reset and charge the battery, but it would drain when not used. Turned out the Li had gone bad. Replaced, no issue since. Can you swap with a another to see if it still drains out.
 

gman

Member
Oxmach":2f5fw2zq said:
I would expect it to be near 0 as the only thing I can think of drawing from the battery would be the dash clock and ecu. I had a similar situation with my 350 and an EarthX Li. I could reset and charge the battery, but it would drain when not used. Turned out the Li had gone bad. Replaced, no issue since. Can you swap with a another to see if it still drains out.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gman

Member
gman":3anggm71 said:
Oxmach":3anggm71 said:
I would expect it to be near 0 as the only thing I can think of drawing from the battery would be the dash clock and ecu. I had a similar situation with my 350 and an EarthX Li. I could reset and charge the battery, but it would drain when not used. Turned out the Li had gone bad. Replaced, no issue since. Can you swap with a another to see if it still drains out.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thx Oxmach. Draw is 160ma or less if I can get the meter to read it at all. I have upgraded to all LED indicators and tail light and have a USB (good quality TrippLite was jays fused and has never been an issue before) So thinking one of my wiring hacks had maybe shorted? I used good quality connectors or solder. But I do suspect the battery. Wanted to do get a baseline before I start experimenting with $200 batteries!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Oxmach

Member
Hey Grant, I just measured my 350 EXC F. At 13.2 VDC, I have 2.2 micro or .002ma. I guess you might be at a point where you will need to pull fuses. BTW it appears the clock has its own battery, it functions without the neg lead connected.

Cheers,
Greg
 

gman

Member
Oxmach":3v89wtwj said:
Hey Grant, I just measured my 350 EXC F. At 13.2 VDC, I have 2.2 micro or .002ma. I guess you might be at a point where you will need to pull fuses. BTW it appears the clock has its own battery, it functions without the neg lead connected.

Cheers,
Greg

Hey Greg. Thx for checking. Electrical is not my speciality.

DC Volts across time he batt terminals with both leads attached is 13.34v and has remained that since yest. I did pull all fuses and all tested ok. I looked at relays for anything obvious but not quite sure how to test them.

Not sure I am testing for Quiescent draw correctly.

My Meter has mA and uA and a 10A option. I can’t get it to read anything now other than .000 at any setting after I checked all fuses, relays, etc, cleaned terminals, etc. All the obvious stuff that I could think of. It’s seem to have a quiescent draw of about 160 mA yesterday. But today I can’t get it to read anything? Maybe that’s just Margin of error for the meter?

The method the “internet” has for measuring any draw is to take the Common lead from the meter and attach it to the Negative/Grnd lead on the bike when disconnected from the battery. Then take your Positive lead and attach to the Positive terminal of the battery which has the positive wire from the bike attached. That should put the Meter in the power loop to take a reading?
 

Oxmach

Member
I’m not sure you have your meter connected correctly. It should be in Series / line of the power supply. Disconnect your neg lead and put the red meter lead on it and the black meter lead on the neg terminal. What you wrote would not give a return path to the battery as the neg terminal is no longer part of the electrical path.

On my meter I move the red lead over to the amp ports either 10A fused or 20mA. And the black stays as the common.

Cheers,
Greg
 

gman

Member
Aha! Thought I (and the Internet... go figure) had it wrong. Thx Greg. Will try again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gman

Member
Oxmach":bnuc8ew1 said:
I’m not sure you have your meter connected correctly. It should be in Series / line of the power supply. Disconnect your neg lead and put the red meter lead on it and the black meter lead on the neg terminal. What you wrote would not give a return path to the battery as the neg terminal is no longer part of the electrical path.

On my meter I move the red lead over to the amp ports either 10A fused or 20mA. And the black stays as the common.

Cheers,
Greg

Ok. Finally had some time to do it right. Thanks for the instructions.

Looks like it’s only drawing 0.05ma which seems reasonable. I’m going to put it all back together and test it again in the morning.

58c279a5994643991a281aa8936f381a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Oxmach

Member
Yeah, that won’t kill your battery in a few weeks. Maybe switch with another and see how the battery holds in each bike.
I think you are on the right track.
Cheers,
Greg
 
Top